Puppies

If you are looking for a puppy or need advice there is lots of useful advice on the Kennel Club website:

https://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/getting-a-dog-or-puppy/

​

Owning a dog is a very important decision and must not be taken lightly. Like many other dogs, PWD can be delightful but with their willful behaviour and high maintenance coat, they are definitely not for everyone. Many people enquiring about PWD have never met the breed and made their decision based upon internet research alone. Before you make any decisions all prospective owners must meet the breed and breeder in person so they can really appreciate the size, caracteristics and challenges. If you do get a puppy please do your research well and follow all of the Kennel Club advice. 

​

What follows is what we consider to be vital when looking for a healthy, well-bred PWD puppy. We would advise searching out a reputable breeder - those who do all of the following:

​

• Health tests: complete all of the tests for both the mother and father and will openly share them with you.  (See the Health page) If they don't do them or won't share them we would advise you to walk away. If you are unsure please contact us for advice as we can tell you about the tests and help you to find them as they are freely available on the Kennel Club website. A good breeder may be able to show you the test results for not only the parents but further back in the pedigree line. Please note that some breeders don't do the tests saying their dog is clear by heredity. This is only true if the line has been recently tested and both parents were clear. The Kennel Club advises to always retest every 3rd generation to make sure. 

• Hip screening tests are done and the results shared with you. There are both genetic and environmental causes of bad hips but those breeders who do the tests will only breed with dogs who are around or below the breed average.  Screening is important as it helps minimise breeding genetic hip issues into the breed. The current 5 year PWD breed average is around 13.8 

• Breed Coefficient: Search out a breeder who does the breed coefficient before breeding and ensures and can prove it is low. The score is out of 100 and you should only breed at or below the breed average which is currently around 9.0 -  the lower the better. Our last litter was 1.8. The higher the score the more genes the parents have in common. A score of 25 is the equivalent of shared genes between grandfather & grand-daughter. This quick and free KC check needs to be done to ensure breeders minimise the health issues from mating to a close relation. It ensures a strong and diverse gene pool. If you are in doubt please ask for advice. If a breeder doesn't know about it, don't do this or they just let their dogs mate as they wish - we would advise you to walk away. 

​

• Kennel Club Assured breeder: go to the Kennel Club website. - they have actively committed to following incredibly high welfare standards and have been inspected. They won't breed a bitch under 2 years, over 8 years and only let her have a maximum of 4 litters. As of 2020, there were only 11 breeders who have signed up to met this standard.  Being a good breeder doesn't mean you have to be KC assured and there are excellent breeders who are not KC Assured and do all of the tests. Whoever you chose it is vital they do all the health tests, hip scores and breed coefficient.

​

• Pedigree Certificate: Ensure you have seen the Kennel Club certificate for both parents. All breeding dogs male & female will have a formal Kennel name & Kennel Club registration number and this can be checked on the Kennel Club website. If the dogs are registered with the Kennel Club you can be sure of their pedigree. It also means that that the puppies can be registered as Pedigree dogs. Without this, it often means that the breeder hasn't fulfilled many of the breeding and animal welfare requirements. You are likely to get a puppy who may a cross-breed, or the parents haven't had the health checks or they have been inter-bred, bred too young (under 2) or too old (over 8) or the mother has had more than  4 litters. It can be an indication of poor breeding and puppy farms. If in doubt - walk away. 

​

• Animal Welfare Licence: ask to see the current certificate from the local authority. This is a legal requirement for commercial kennels. It doesn't really apply to one-off family / hobby / occasional breeders who might breed once a year but with the inconsistency of how local authorities apply the rules, some family breeders may be required to have one. It is worth asking.

​

• Always visit the breeder in the family home - we can never say this enough. Do not buy one without seeing the breeder, the bitch, the tests, the breed coefficient, and pedigree. Do not buy one, cheap, from Gumtree or the back of a van from Portugal - it does happen.

​

• Exporting / importing: Many UK breeders will not export because there is more than enough demand in the UK without having the added complications of exporting. Breeders and purchasers must pay special attention to quarantine laws, vaccinations & pet passports. If you intend to import a puppy it is vital all requirements are met you are certain the breeder is reputable, all the health tests done and the dogs are pedigree dogs registered with the national equivalent of the Kennel Club. It is important to note that for many countries puppies can not enter or leave the UK until the Rabies vaccine is completed at this is around week 16. Most puppies leave the breeder's home at 8 weeks , however rabies vaccination can only be done at 12 weeks and it takes a further 21 days before a puppy can be exported.As a result, there is often an extra charge for the extra 8 weeks the breeder would have to look after them. You also have to consider that the new owner and puppy will be missing the most vital 8 weeks of socialisation.

​

• Pay the going rate: Ask and we will tell you the current going rate PWD breeders are charging.During 2019 the range was between £1200 up to £1500 from a good or KC Assured breeder who does all of the health checks and breed coefficient. This price tends to rise slightly each year. COVID update: due to the unprecedented increase in demand some dog breeders have doubled their charges and one PWD breeder charged around £4000 for their puppies. A simple case of supply and demand or sheer profiteering? Paying more does not get you a better behaved or healthier dog.

  • Do not overpay: Some breeders charge twice the going rate for a "special "dog or a "therapy" dog.  There is no way you can tell if a puppy will be a good therapy dog until it is much older and much of it depends upon the environment it is brought up in and how it is trained. Some breeders will charge you more for a bitch or those cute puppies with 4 white paws. We would advise paying the going rate for all dogs as paying more does not get you a healthier, better adjusted, well behaved dog. 

  • Do not underpay:  a cheap dog almost certainly won't have had the tests, may be a result of too close breeding, may be more prone to health issues, may not be a pedigree (maybe a mix with a spaniel or poodle) and may have come from poor breeding or from a puppy farm. It may come from a litter that the breeder is unable to register as pedigree because the bitch is too young, too old or had over 4 litters in its life.  If in doubt ask for advice.

​

• Contract: Ensure there is a contract, preferably one based on the Assured Breeders contract from the Kennel Club. Ensure you see it several weeks before you commit to buying the dog so you can check it. Ask about any endorsements the breeder may put on the contract. A good breeder will send you the contract when you visit at 5 weeks. A bad one will show you for the first time when you pick up at 8 weeks when you won't have time to read it thoroughly and ask questions. 

​

• Waiting lists: Different breeders do things in different ways - there may well be a waiting list as demand is incredibly high but many breeders will only start the list when they know their bitch is coming into season or is pregnant. With an average of 7 puppies in a litter and demand being incredibly high there is little point having a massive waiting list where you will end up disappointing a majority of people. We ask everyone to complete a questionnaire which we will gladly send to you if you ask. We then hold these expressions of interest and when a bitch is pregnant we use the questionnaires to create a list of 10 -12 people  - all of whom have completed the questionnaire, have previously taken the time to have visited us, and then kept in touch.

  • Yes, it is OK to be on the list of several breeders. It increases the likelihood of getting a PWD.

  • No, we don't make people pay a deposit just be on the list.  

  • No, we won't put you on the list in place of someone else even if you offer us double the money or are on TV. or an on-line "influencer". These dogs may be rare but they are not fashion statements or something to have just to be different. 

​

• Choice of puppy: Once on the list do not expect to have a completely free choice. A good breeder will match the puppy and the owner together. Think of it as adoption. A good breeder will not let an inexperienced dog owner or those with young children have a dominant male or female.  At 5 weeks a puppy's characteristics are starting to appear and a good breeder will often give you a choice between several puppies which will suit your circumstances, requirements, and experience. 

​

• Deposit: We would advise to only pay a deposit when you have agreed with the breeder which dog you are adopting at your 5-week visit. Never feel pressurised into paying an earlier holding deposit or the full amount early. Never feel pressurised into having a dog that isn't what you want.  Don't be pressurised into having a dog because it is the last one or it looks cute. When you pick up the puppy at 8 weeks do not accept a puppy if it isn't the one you chose, or the initial vet check reports a serious issue.  If your personal circumstances change (illness, loss of a job, moving home etc) then a good breeder will not expect you to have the puppy and will offer you a full refund of your deposit. PWD are in such demand there should be no problem finding a new owner.

​

• Honesty: And finally, a good breeder will be honest about both the good and bad traits of the breed. They will be open about the grooming and behaviour challenges that all PWD owners will face.  In return please be honest with the breeder. Don't be surprised if a good breeder turns down prospective owners if they feel that a dog is not right for them or they can not meet the dog's needs. A good breeder may well turn down an owner if they haven't really considered how a dog will fit into their lives or they work all day; don't have a suitable home (PWD need a good outside garden and flats are not suitable); have severe allergies or seriously afraid of dogs. A good breeder will put the welfare of the dog first and before the desires of the potential owner. 

​

We are often asked if PWD are suitable for flats: It is important to remember that PWD are an energetic working breed and need adequate space to meet their needs. Please note that we will not consider applications from people who live in flats on or above the first floor as they do not have direct access to a garden from the flat.  We will only accept ground floor flats if they are of a suitable size and there must be direct access from the flat to your own private, reasonably sized and fully secure garden (not a shared or communal garden).

What size garden do we need? It is recommended that a PWD needs a good-sized garden to be able to run freely. A Medium size garden is between 100m2 and 320m2. We consider the absolute minimum it needs to be is 10m x 10m or 100m2  of open area for the dog to run freely. (33ft x 33ft or 1080ft2).  By open area we mean the useable space for a dog to run around in - many people just measure the length and width but forget that much of the area is covered by a garage, shed, summerhouse, large overgrown hedge etc. 

Different local authorities have different planning requirements but the 100m2 garden is considered to be the acceptable minimum private (i.e. rear) garden size for most types of houses that can accommodate most household activities.

Please do not ask to have a PWD if you do not have suitable accommodation or outside space. If in doubt measure your garden - don't just guess. Please note that garden sizes can easily be checked  / measured on google maps - so please make sure you are honest with a breeder. What matters is the health and welfare of a dog which must override the desire of a human to have a dog. 

​

Can I have a dog if I work full time? Please have a look at the Kennel Club advice. We often hear from people that they have been turned down by re-homing charities because they work full time - so they try to get a puppy from a breeder even though their circumstances haven't changed. You really have to carefully consider how you will meet the needs of your dog during the day; feed them 4x  then 3x a day while they are a puppy; socialise them, let them out to wee, exercise them etc.  Whilst it is possible to work and have a dog don't be surprised if a breeder turns you down if you can't demonstrate how you will meet their needs.  We meet so many couples who would like a dog and many are fully aware that the time isn't right for them to have a dog. But when the time is right and they move into a property which has enough space and they have the time and finances for a dog they will often come back for a PWD. They are worth the wait and patience will be rewarded. 

​

Can I take my dog to work? It's easy, right? It's only a cute puppy.

Think very carefully about this.  Would you take a baby to work? Would you take a toddler, child, pre-teen or even a teenager to work with you? Would it be easy to take care of a toddler at work when they need constant attention and close supervision? When they are young, puppies will demand and need attention and believe me, this is not easy while you are trying to work. If you work 9-5 it is a long time for a young puppy. Don't forget that they are an exuberant, energetic working breed. But it is possible - it is all about where you work, how long you work, how you slowly introduce them to it - and when they are old and mature enough. Don't forget that breeders suggest that they don't mature and clam down until at least 18 months. Many owners do eventually manage to successfully balance work with dog ownership.

​

Take this experience from a PWD breeder as an example: Imagine an owner who loves their dog but believers they know best - they take their puppy on a 30 min journey to work, expecting the puppy to behave at work all day - but without the attention it requires it just can't behave. So they try solving the issue by taking the dog to doggy day-care. So early each morning they drive 30 mins to work, drop off the dog, the dog spends all day with doggy day-care, they finish work each evening, picked the dog up, drive 30mins home. Once home they feed the dog and are surprised that the dog is excited & full of energy - while they are tired from a day of commuting and work. The dog is just excited to see them. They believe that the dog isn't behaving as they would like in the evenings and weekends - but all the dog wants is attention. Added to this the dog spends most of the week with doggy-day care and is getting its main behaviour and attention from one person and not from the owners. The dog is confused about how to behave and their behaviours become very difficult. The dog is thought to be at fault. Is this really the dog's fault or the owners?

In this case, the owners certainly loved the dog but found the dog's behaviour too challenging and it needed rehoming. Once rehomed with owners who understood and could meet the dog's needs it has become a delight. If you ever watch Dogs behaving (very) badly on TV, the trainer doesn't train the dog - he trains the humans to understand the dogs needs and how to meet them. 

​

We often say to people "you get the dog you deserve" and the more you understand dogs and PWD, and the more you train them with consistency and love - the better the dog you will have. When you have children you soon realise your life changes and you have to adapt your life around the children. It is the same for dogs - but too many people think they can fit a dog into their life rather than making the changes to their life to meet the needs of a dog.  If you can't meet the needs of a dog - don't have one. 

​

Are PWD suitable for families with young children / toddlers? Again we have had conversations with people who have been turned down by breeders who will not consider them for a PWD because they have young children. They are an energetic, willful, and "mouthy" breed and can pose challenges to families with young children. However, we believe it is quite possible to have a PWD and a young family if you are well prepared and consistent with your training. By this, we mean that it is just as important to train your children how to behave around a dog as it is to train your dog. 

​

I have heard that they are a placid breed, are they are suitable for first-time dog owners?

PWD are lovely but they can pose challenges for inexperienced dog owners as well as experienced owners.  I wouldn't call them placid, the breed standard uses the terms: intelligent, energetic, pleasant disposition but self-willed. It will not be the easiest dog for your first dog but as long as you plan well; ask for and follow advice; are consistent with your behaviour training; train with praise and love; physically and mentally stimulate them; are patient (very patient) and persistent then you will have a real sense of achievement and a better adjusted, better-behaved dog. You will get the dog you deserve - the more you put in the better the dog will be.  It won't be easy but it can be done by first time owners. But please be aware, like any dog, they will have their challenges. Our first dog, Chester, was full-on, energetic, bright and quick to learn. He was also willful and mouthy, so much so that Wendy would have sent him back virtually every day for his first year. But it didn't stop her getting Holly or Jasmine or Rafferty. All of whom share many Portie characteristics whilst having their own unique characters and pose their own challenges. The best thing to do is always meet the breed at the breeder's home and see what fully grown dogs are like rather than just seeing the cute puppies. Those cute fluffy puppies are easy to fall in love with but they soon grow up and you need to be prepared for what is coming your way!

​

I want one as they are perfect for my allergies as they are hypoallergenic and I won't react. 

Please carefully read our page on allergies and hypoallergenic dogs. To put it simply hypo means "low "it does not mean "no" cause of allergies.  PWD may have low shedding hair but that does not mean you won't react to the protein in the shed skin cells (dander), saliva or urine. You must visit a breeder to see how you react and don't take anyone word that you won't react to a PWD.

​

I want one because have been told that they are perfect therapy / school dogs.

Every dog can be a  therapy dog and at the same time, no specific breed can ever be considered to be perfect therapy dogs. Despite their reputation, I have seen Dobermen and German Shepherds as perfect therapy dogs. Have you ever considered why people don't talk about therapy cats, rabbits or even snakes - all of which would be great for therapy? Remember what people really mean is a companion dog for someone with specific needs. Any dog can give them unconditional love, companionship and a real purpose. However in true therapy it is not the dog who does the therapy - it is the trained therapist who carefully uses the dog as their medium just as they would use art, play or music as their means of a carefully planned intervention and support. 

Yes, PWD can be great therapy dogs but at the same time, there are as many PWD who would not be suitable. They are an energetic working, mouthy breed and without careful training and bringing them up to be well-mannered dogs you can easily have an unruly, high energy PWD. Many breeders say that PWD are slow to mature and don't seem to calm down until at least 18 months. Our Chester, even with years of obedience training, wasn't ready to be a therapy dog until he calmed down at about 4 years old. Jasmine was always a calmer dog at a younger age.  

Don't believe people if they say get a PWD and they will be perfect therapy or school dog. Don't believe people who will charge you more for a therapy PWD - it is not about how much they cost it is about how they are brought up, socialised and trained by the owner.  Yes breeders can breed two dogs with a calm temperament in the hope you will get calm puppies - but without proper socialisation and consistent, loving training you may still not have a well behaved or suitably calm dog. 

Do not get a PWD and expect them to be perfect therapy dogs. 

​

As for school dogs - Just as above they can be perfect as well as being totally unsuitable. Do not think that PWD are the perfect answer to dogs in schools. Many charities including Pets as Therapy (PAT) and reading dogs do not advocate full-time school dogs. Dogs need to go in for a purpose for short allotted times. The dogs need to be carefully introduced and all aspects of the dogs welfare must come first.  Don't forget full risk assessment and public liability insurance will be needed. Many liability nsurers will want the dog's temperament to be assessed and if a dog works in school then many dog health insurance companies will not cover them.

They can serve a purpose if their use is well-targeted. I have seen many reading dogs in school where children who are reluctant to read will happily read to a dog and their handler. Yes, there is no doubt it is a great motivator but it is no substitute for targeted support from a teacher or TA who can identify and support the child's reading needs.

Being in education for 30+ years and being head of various schools,  I meet too many people who want a dog but work full time so don't have the time to meet the needs of a dog. But because they are teachers they think they can get a puppy because they can take it in to school. We say make sure you really have the time for the dog first and only if it's temperament is suited to therapy or school work then you have a double-win. The thing to consider is - a puppy (or dog) isn't really suited to a full-time school environment and what will you do with your dog if it isn't suited to be in school and you work full time? There is so much to consider before having a dog in school - please ring for a chat if it applies to you. 

​

If you are ever in doubt about any of the above then please ask us for advice.

​

As prospective owners, you must consider whether a dog will really fit in with your lifestyle especially if you work or have very young children. Owning a new dog is similar to adoption. You will need to make sure it is the right thing for you and you will need to fully commit to having a new dog and making all the lifestyle changes necessary. Once you commit to adopting a PWD puppy you will be taking over all legal, financial and medical responsibility for the lifetime of the dog. 

​

Many good breeders will require all prospective owners to complete a questionnaire and visit. Because demand is so high it shows that a prospective adopter has seriously considered the issues and is really committed.  Many reputable breeders will only deal with the eventual puppy owners - and will not talk to third parties/families who are buying a PWD as a surprise gift. Visiting is especially important if you are looking for a PWD due to your allergies, are inexperienced dog owners or have young children. It is vital you meet the dogs if you have allergies so you can assess the level of your reaction. We are more than happy if you wish to visit us to see how you react, irrespective of where you get a puppy from.

 

We are open to visits from anyone interested in PWD and if you visit we will introduce you to our dogs; answer all your questions; explain and show you examples of pedigrees; health tests for the breed;  Kennel Club contract and explain any possible endorsements which breeders use. We will help you consider everything about owning a PWD so that you make an informed choice and can adequately meet their needs.

​

Prior to purchase: Prospective owners will need to understand that as a breeder every effort has been made to avoid any possible inherited conditions. We will take every care with the breeding, rearing and welfare of the puppy however we can make no warranty as to the future health or disposition of the puppy. Relevant, existing screening schemes will be undertaken and copies of these will be shared when people visit prior to purchase.  The puppies will  also be checked by a veterinary surgeon prior to sale. Although no warranty can be given on the future health of the puppy, the outcome of that check will be passed on to the prospective puppy owner together with the details of the veterinary surgeon who carried it out. Any health issues from the Vet check will be declared prior to signing a contract of sale. 

​

Prospective owners will need to ensure they have asked for, have seen and are satisfied with all the information they require prior to signing a contract of sale. Once the contract is signed the buyer will take full and total responsibility and liability for the puppy including all legal, financial and medical costs.

 

During visits and  prior to the collection prospective owners should ensure they ask about and are satisfied with the following information - all of which we explain on visits and are willing to provide information and support on:

• the possible consequences of buying the Puppy given the Dog Health Information, the genetic health checks and health screening carried out and any particular considerations that are likely to affect a PWD puppy;

• the meaning of any Kennel Club endorsement placed on the contract;

• the measures & considerations that should be taken, whether by neutering, contraception or otherwise, to guard against unwanted pregnancy; and

• the Future Health and Welfare Needs of the Puppy including socialisation, vaccination, behaviour and manner training and neutering.

 

When puppies leave their breeder at eight weeks they should have:

• Initial vaccinations completed and a copy of the vet's record

• Basic puppy health check at the vets 

• Microchipped and chip registration details and how to ensure they are registered to you.

• Often they have 5 weeks of free pet insurance (often through the Kennel Club as part of the registration)

• For interest, a good breeder may give you a copy of their weight chart from birth to 8 weeks.

• A copy of the Animal Welfare act

• Bag of food (or a voucher or e-code) and feeding guidance on quantity, times

• Puppy information leaflet full of advice on how to bring up a puppy covering:​

  • first few nights

  • feeding

  • toilet training

  • crate training

  • behaviour training

  • advice on toys, treats, leads, bowls, car restraints to buy

  • grooming

  • Health advice esp vaccination advice, fleas, worms & ticks

  • The Kennel Club provides an excellent outline leaflet for Assured Breeders which a good breeder will adapt for PWD

• Copy of the signed contract with any endorsements

• Receipt for payment

• Kennel Club information including pedigree, Kennel name, and details of how to transfer ownership

• Often a good breeder will provide some bedding smelling of mum and possibly a toy.

• Some breeders will invite new owners to join a Facebook group to share photos, ask questions and seek support.

​